Saturday, December 9, 2017

SKIN CARE SPECIAL .....More Than Just Skin-Deep

More Than Just Skin-Deep

Experts discuss common mistakes that do your skin a lot more harm than good

As a teenager, acne was Pavithra Balakrishnan’s greatest nemesis. After spending several sleepless nights agonizing over her acne-prone skin, she turned to the internet for answers and discovered a whole new world of innocuousseeming kitchen-based ‘beauty hacks’. “Taking the advice of a well-known beauty blogger, I crushed a garlic pod and rubbed it on my face. It stung terribly and left my face red and blotchy. To my great frustration, I realised garlic was not the answer to my skincare woes and that it was actually damaging my sensitive skin.”
Since then, the 26-year-old beauty blogger, who is popularly known on the internet as Makeup Martini, has learned many more beauty lessons and is much wiser today about following skincare trends than she was as a beauty neophyte. “Over the years, I’ve tried several hacks that I came across on Instagram and YouTube. Many of the more popular ones, such as using glue for blackheads, or cinnamon and wasabi paste for fuller lips are quite ineffective and actually very painful. It took me a while to understand that good skincare involves so much more than hacks and fads, and that it is most effective only when followed as a long-term, scientifically-grounded regimen,” she says.
Echoing Balakrishnan’s woes are millions of Indian men and women, who must contend with many half-truths and ignorant claims in their quest for flawless skin. Many of these misconceptions stem from the country’s recent beauty boom, which anticipates the domestic cosmetics and grooming market to swell to USD 20 billion (ASSOCHAM, 2016) by 2025 and also the spurt of internetfamous, self-proclaimed beauty gurus. To separate fact from fiction, we spoke to skincare experts about the most common skincare mistakes most people make.

Believing that everything natural is safe
Thick pancake makeup does not allow your skin to breathe, can cause pores and oil ducts to become blocked — Dr Avani Shah
Indian consumers are far more partial to herbal and ‘natural’ cosmetic products. A recent Euromonitor report found that packaging that contained words such as words such as ‘natural’, ‘organic’, ‘botanical’, ‘free from’ some harsh chemical and even ‘religious compliance’ play a major role in influencing buying decisions. The report also finds that more than 50 percent of Indian consumers will buy a skincare product that has ‘natural or organic’ features. Many of these claims can be misleading since these words have no official or legal meaning when it comes to labelling cosmetics. What most consumers also do not realise is that plant-based substances are also technically chemicals and that they can also react with your skin in similar ways that synthetic substances can.
Aesthetician and dermatologist Dr Bharti Magoo explains, “People must understand that organic substances contain acids and that they are not suitable for all skin types. Even using neem paste or clove oil, which have astringent properties, on pimples can damage your skin – while certain pimple may dry out, others caused by hormonal imbalances will get further aggravated. If you suffer from breakouts very regularly and your pimples are filled with pus, seek medical attention. For nonhormone-related acne, home remedies may help to a certain extent. However, make sure to test the pack out on a small section of skin to make sure you don’t suffer from any allergies. You could also try using a sandalwood or fuller’s earth (multani mitti)-based pack to which a single mint leaf has been crushed and added.”

Using packs and masks too often and for too long
“Even the most effective pack will dry out your skin and can cause breakouts if left for too long,” says Dr Magoo. She recommends not distracting yourself by getting on the phone when using packs and making sure to wash off the pack after seven minutes. Korean beauty trends, which have been making waves in beauty circles for a while now, also promote the use of sheet masks, which skincare lovers have eagerly lapped up. “Sheet masks create an ‘occlusive barrier’ that physically seals in active serums. Theoretically, this helps the product work more effectively, but it can also be quite harmful to your skin if used too often,” says dermatologist Dr Soma Sarkar.
High quality sheet masks can be expensive while cheaper masks can contain skin-irritating fragrances and lower-quality oils. Occlusion creates a temperature spike near your face and this can be problematic for acne-prone skin. Increasing temperature can also increase the acne-causing bacteria count on the surface of the skin. It is preferable, therefore, to test the mask on the side of your cheek overnight and check for new blemishes the next day, before proceeding with a full mask. Also, these masks are better suited for hydration than for exfoliation or other processes, and should be used accordingly. Dr Sarkar also advises using these masks no more than once a week.

Being careless with makeup
Although many mothers have waggled cautionary fingers about makeup causing acne and break outs, using makeup doesn’t necessarily damage your skin — provided you do it right. “Makeup can create a barrier against atmospheric pollution and your skin. Certain products such as BB and CC creams include moisturisers and sunblock, and can keep your skin healthy. However, thick, pancake makeup does not allow your skin to breathe, can cause pores and oil ducts to become blocked, causing comedogenic acne,” says cosmetic dermatologist Dr Avani Shah. “For individuals with oily skin, buying oil-free makeup with a light texture is very important. Regardless of what makeup you use, make sure to take it all off before bedtime,” adds Dr Magoo.
Sharing makeup and brushes is another strict no-no as far as good skincare is concerned. “Sharing brushes and makeup (especially eye and lip makeup) can transmit bacterial infections and herpes,” cautions Dr Shah. She also emphasises on the need to replace makeup within its expiry date. “All makeup includes a combination of pigments, preservatives, and stabilizers or emulsifiers, which are all chemicals. When a chemical that has been used in a particular combination goes past its expiry date, especially in a tropical climate like India, it can aggravate and inflame the skin causing allergic reactions, contact dermatitis and pimples. Using liquid makeup beyond its expiry date is asking for trouble. Tablets, on the other hand, can be stretched for a month.”
Keeping your makeup brushes clean is another point that every dermatologist highlights. Dermatologist Dr Batul Patel explains, “Unclean makeup brushes are a breeding ground for bacteria, which can lead to acne. Makeup brushes also should be cleaned frequently, preferably once a week or a fortnight. Wash your brushes with antibacterial soap and dry them thoroughly. To avoid dust settling on the brushes, they should be kept in a clean, closed pouch.”
Beauty blogger Ranita Sheetal, who runs the popular Infinity Times Infinity blog, adds, “Another typical mistake people make is storing their makeup in the bathroom – the humidity destroys the product and increases microbial infestations, making your products unhygienic and unsafe for your skin. This can lead to continuous breakouts.”
Using too many products
“What most people ignore is that the skin is a secretory organ and is the body’s third-most important detoxifying organ. Using too many products can impair this basic function, giving rise to acne and clogged pores,” says Dr Shah. “Also, many of the products available today are not US FDA-approved. In order to gain these approvals, manufacturers must abide by stringent scientific standards and the product must consistently, scientifically reproduce its claimed effect. This is not true for a lot of creams available in the market. As a result, very few people are satisfied with the products they use, and continue to buy more products. It is a vicious cycle. The only foolproof solution for clear skin is a simple routine that is backed by good nutrition, adequate consumption of water and regular exercise,” she says.
At the same time, Dr Sarkar advises paying attention to the sequence in which you use products to ensure that your skin receives the intended benefit. She advises using a light serum such as Vitamin C, retinol or hydraulic acid at night, followed by a water-based moisturiser. In case of very dry skin, you can also follow this with a leave-in mask. For the daytime, she recommends using sunscreen with inbuilt moisturizers for oily skin, and moisturiser followed by sunscreen for dry skin.
Blogger Shrima Rai adds, “Now that I am in my thirties, I have realised the importance of using different creams as per the time of the year. For instance, I have understood that what works during summer months may be completely unsuitable during winter, and this is something that not too many people pay attention to. I also highly recommend understanding your skin before you experiment, and consulting a dermatologist if necessary to make sure you know what your skin needs.”
Anindita Paul

MM 22NOV17



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