TRAVEL SPECIAL..... KENYA

TRAVEL KENYA

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Before you travel to Africa for the first time – even if you’re politically correct and stay away from stereotypes – you may associate it with statuettes of Maasai men and women, some shows on National Geographic and Madagascar 2.

The one that you Will Only do Once:

The Carnivore Restaurant hilltop in Nairobi is a hardcore feasting experience. Right from the entrance, you notice an orange glow from the spits on which huge pieces of meat are being cooked. Carnivore is famous for the variety of grilled meats it offers – crocodile, elephant, zebra and giraffe. The restaurant is structured like an amphitheatre, with tables on every step looking down at the pit where you can shake a leg between courses of zebra and wildebeest. Waiters come around with the meat on skewers and slice off pieces onto your plate. Once you’re done, you can lower the white flag on your table – a sign that you’ve finally had your fill. You can’t be shy here, or a vegetarian.

Upside: The copious amounts of Dawa, a local cocktail, to help wash the meat down.

Downside: More novelty, less taste. You will end up asking for chicken because the crocodile is just too hard to chew.

The one that you’LL never Forget:

Getting into the Maasai Mara National Reserve isn’t the most comfortable ride owing to the uneven dirt track leading to it. But the sight of baby giraffes walking along the minivan will make up for the backaches. The Mara is a visual feast. You’ll begin slowly but soon enough, behind every bush, you’ll spot lion families, elephant herds on the horizon and hippos bubbling up from the swampy pools. This 360-degree, beautiful animal kingdom will alter, once and for all, what you know about your planet.

Upside: The Great Migration in action! Thousands of wildebeest and zebras cross the massive rift valley between July and November. The size of an army but the discipline of a kindergarten class – an amazing sight.

Downside: You may overdose on zebra sightings and cease to find them cute anymore.

The one that’s all too familiar:

As Indians, you may think you’re immune to the tourist trap of souvenir shopping. But the tables are quick to turn because there’s nothing – from animals to people to weapons – that hasn’t been miniaturised in Africa. Every loo-stop, every mall and even the gate to the National Reserve has Maasai men and women in make-shift curio stores. And they make sure you never leave empty-handed.

Upside: The statuesque Maasai, both in human and curio form.

Downside: Bargaining is tough with limited language skills.

The one that Will shake you:

As Africa’s – and arguably, the world’s – largest slum, Kibera is often a site for philanthropic tourism. A huge population – along with beauty parlours, bars, social enterprises and schools – thrives in its narrow lanes and shacks. Not unlike Dharavi, it quickly developed an entrepreneurial spirit to battle the adversities it grew in.

Upside: The welcoming residents and their wide smiles.

Downside: You can’t do this walk without a guide who knows Kibera well.

The one that Will see you through it all:

Tusker Beer is Kenya’s answer to Kingfisher. As the orange sun hangs low in the sky and the day is coming to an end, you can let your trip finally sink in over a few Tuskers.

Upside: A great dinner accompaniment.

Downside: You’ll spend time at duty-free deciding whether to buy a six-pack. You will eventually buy much more.

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