Monday, February 15, 2016

FOODIE SPECIAL .................Fresh Memories of that First Bite

Fresh Memories of that First Bite
….. breakfast haunts that not only found favour with our tongues and tummies, but have stuck on as fond memories
For the love of ‘idlis’
Madras Cafe and Ramashray are as legendary as their breakfast queues. But if you are waiting, you may as well join the bipedal one on the other side of Matunga Circle, outside Idli House. I’ve devoured many a morning meal tucking into their tender idlis and equally soft mudhos (idli batter steamed in cone-shaped moulds and served wrapped in banana leaf) with steaming hot sambar and lip-smacking chutneys. The variety—kanchipuram, pepper, masala kakdi, vegetable—of idlis is the biggest draw of the nearly bus-sized eatery, but what attracts me most to Idli House is their seasonal jackfruit idli, which has to be tried for its lush flavour. The quick and no-frills service—a squeezy bottle of coconut oil, the mulga and limbda podi containers are rapidly passed between the three tables—means you have to chew your food quickly and move on to make space for others. Don’t forget to order the kaapi before you leave though. Idli House is also that rare breed of establishment that penalises wastage—extra sambar, if not finished, is charged.
—Marisha Karwa

Of divine inspirations
It was during my early days in Mumbai. And as early days in a new city go, I was perpetually curious. One morning, I found myself out-of-bed and sitting at the popular Colaba patisserie-cum-cafe, Theobroma (Food of the Gods), reccommended by a friend. Before long, it became an off day-morning ritual that involved allowing hot mayo or gooey chocolate sauce to dribble down the chin sans guilt, making the week's horrors fade away. The tiny joint was a mish-mash of colour and cheer, what with spiral trays of rainbow-hued muffins, red velvet and chocolate-oreo cupcakes sitting pretty on the counter. The aroma of chicken BLTs, egg Florentine, bacon with fries or pancakes served with maple syrup seduce you from the pantry. My favourite though, is Kejriwal, or chilly-cheese toast with fried eggs. I'd first ordered it because of the name and over countless repeats concluded that it's probably a sly reference to the “fried” state of mind that political figures like Kejriwal may frequently find themselves in. Either way, it's delicious. Also worth the indulgence are their butter croissants, New York style baked cheese cake, chocolate eclair and lemon and mint iced tea (to wash away the health-sins). It took me 40 minutes of local train travel from Santacruz, and an immense reserve of will, to travel to Colaba at the end of a six-day working week. All worth it. Every bit(e) of it!
—Sohini Das Gupta

The other ‘kulchewala’
It’s not uncommon for clubbing to give way to house parties for those who’ve left college and been in the workforce for a few years. A few years ago, after one such house party, followed by a sleepover, the friend hosting us decided it’s wiser to go to Sainath Dhaba, RCF Colony, in Chembur than have us raid her kitchen in the morning. That was my first time to the famed kulche wala. Greedy me, couldn’t stop at one, I called for three (aloo, cheese and paneer served with finely chopped onions and chole). I even hopped over to the adjacent Hardev Kripa and packed an aloo-cheese one for home! Since then I’ve driven there from South Mumbai with friends and family time and again, just for the kulcha. While Sainath is good, what keeps me going back is Hardev even though it appears less hygienic. My mouth waters each time I watch them stuff the dough, pat it flat and stick it to the traditional tandoor. Their kulcha is crisper with more char and more flavoursome filling. Ready to go?
—Pooja Bhula

Cheese me, please me
Gaylord was one breakfast haunt, our girl gang would walk into with pyjamas, unkempt hair and unbrushed teeth, nursing a hangover or after nightlong preparations for college festivals. With lethargic grace, we’d saunter into the bakery section and pile our trays with whatever looked most cheesy, crusty and greasy from the assortment of warm bread offerings in wicker baskets. We’d crash on the wrought-iron chairs, take in the peripheral shrubbery, call for chai and attack our chosen manna in absolute silence. Halfway through steaming masala chai, we’d come to our senses, boiling down to the same observation each time: we look like trash, but still blend well with the Gaylord crowd. And then burst into giggles. Nibbling on cheese chilli sticks, we’d talk about shopping, life after a decade and who we were dating. Last week, when I visited again, but for the beautiful chairs getting an ugly coat of green, nothing else had changed! The same cheese cross baskets, chicken or mushroom buns, chocolate croissants, chicken sausage puffs or plaits, pizza slices, biscotti... were all there. Strangely, I’ve never explored their desserts, having stuck to chocolate, blueberry and cranberry muffins. Masala chai is now replaced by jasmine tea, every sip rinsing the remnants to welcome a new greasy morsel. Gaylord will always remind me of grease and friendship.
—Ornella D’Souza

Deceptive looks, delicious food
Sarvi at the corner of Bellasis Road that leads to Mazgaon looks like a decrepit landmark, but inside the restaurant is a thriving hive. My favourite time is morning, when you will find office goers, sons of soil, the labour force, cabbies, bookies and foodies with heads bent in total focus on their plates. Breakfast here is fine sliced, and regulars know precisely when you should be here. Mouth watering kheema pao washed down with chai? Pre-dawn to about 9 pm. Dal fry and crispy roti? Yummy and to die for! This is for the lazier lot who wake up at nine and fly down before it all vanishes by 11am. The regular ‘lunch’ menu starts showing up by noon. By then, most of us are out, smacking our lips and burping contentedly.—Amy Fernandes

Dining with Mario Miranda
Suzette, Indigo and Theobroma cliques can pooh-pooh this pick all they want, but I stand my ground. Indeed, you'll get better everythings elsewhere: kheema gotala at Good Luck Cafe, kheema-pav at Kyani & Co. and homegrown charm at Prakash, that quintessentially-Dadar institution.
But like American scribe John Gunther (sorry, no Rumi or Confucius here) once said, all happiness depends on a leisurely breakfast. And nowhere have I been happier breaking bread—iterally and metaphorically—than in dear old Mondy's. Some meals are less about the food and more about memories. Not that Mondy's falls short in the former. Its old-fashioned English breakfasts, meat cuts and pork sausages, pancake rolls (pancakes stuffed with honey and bananas or honey, apple and cinnamon) and masala omelettes are the stuff of Bombay legend. These were around much before other eateries jumped on the bandwagon and tried to steal Mondy's thunder—to no avail. What it lacked in the hype (looking at you, Cafe Leopold) quotient, it made up for with that timeless, in-house jukebox belting ’80s power ballads, freewheeling conversations and works of art in both coffee mugs (if you were lucky) and on its walls (You can gaze upon a Mario Miranda caricature for the nth time and never tire of it). And so it was that Mondy's became our Mecca while in college, a go-to for discussing projects, being catty about professors and dousing ourselves in teen angst over beer and BLT sandwiches.
If Mondy's was a person, it would probably be a gamely, sometimes-plastered and unpretentious misfit.
Just the kind of company I love.
—Roshni Nair

Fix it with beer
Nothing beats devouring a plate of fried eggs, bacon, toast and freshly brewed beer after a 10-km run. And I did just that last September at Doolally, in Bandra, one Sunday morning. I'm a big fan of the traditional English breakfast, and the restaurant had a discounted beer breakfast, Breakfast for Champions, for Rs 250. Who can resist that price? I remember walking into the restaurant soaked in sweat, and was pleasantly surprised to see some other runners having breakfast there as well. I opted for the traditional English breakfast and an oatmeal stout. While I took time to finish the beer (super refreshing), I wolfed down the the food. The hash brown practically melted in my mouth. Sadly, I've not gone back to savour this breakfast, but writing this tempts me to wake up a little early on Sunday just to enjoy this again, after a good run. For the lovely beer accompanying the petit dejeuner, I'm willing to pay its new price, Rs 500 too!
—Jayadev Calamur

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